Thursday, December 31, 2015

Indie Pattern Month: Giveaways!

To further celebrate Indie Pattern Month, we're giving away a pattern a week for the month of January!

Every Thursday, you can enter to win a pattern of your choice from that day's featured indie pattern company.  Here's the schedule:
January 7:  Blueprints for Sewing
January 14:  Decades of Style
January 21:  Noodlehead
January 28:  Thread Theory

On each Thursday, we'll publish a Giveaway post to Instagram for that pattern company.  To enter, simply comment on that picture and post your own indie pattern image to Instagram with the hashtag #indiepatternmonth and tag us at @stonemountainfabric.

We'll use a random number generator to determine a winner, and then we'll get in touch through Instagram to ship you your new FREE pattern!

*Note:  Due to shipping costs and customs fees, we can only send the winner's pattern to a United States address.  Sorry to our international friends!

Can't wait to see everyone's favorite indie garments and quilts on Instagram next month!  Here's the full schedule below:

Tuesday, December 22, 2015

Indie Pattern Month: January 2016

Starting January 1st, we invite you to join us in celebrating our independent pattern companies. Each day we'll be celebrating a different company and you're invited to post your garments, quilts, and bags each day with the tags #indiepatternmonth and @stonemountainfabric. We'll choose our favorite posts and share them with you!

We've been so inspired by the sewing photo challenges we've seen and participated in on Instagram, so we thought we'd try one of our own! As much as we love fabric (which is a lot), we love seeing what it becomes even more. Fabric holds such potential to fulfill our creative dreams and brings us inspiration to continue making. For the same reasons, we LOVE patterns, and especially independent pattern companies, who are run by amazing people with amazing stories.

Haven't heard of some of these indie companies? This is the perfect time to check them out. We're giving you a head start, so get going on that sewing! We carry all of these companies and more, and you can shop them here: SHOP SEWING PATTERNS.

Of course, we can't carry every indie pattern out there. There are other pattern companies that we love, but just don't carry at this time.  This is the perfect opportunity to let us know if there's a pattern line you'd like to see in store!

Need some inspiration?  Check out the FabricLady's Top Indie Patterns of 2015 Blog! Suzan and her seamstress Laurel have made some amazing garments this year using indie patterns, and they should really get your creative juices flowing.

We can't wait to see what you've made!

Monday, October 5, 2015

Let's Get Cozy with Boiled Wool this Fall!

We've been big fans of boiled wool for years here at Stonemountain, and we're delighted to see that love catching on.  If you're unfamiliar with this fabric, you should definitely come in and feel some, or pick up our Fall 2015 Swatch Packet, which includes two large samples of boiled wool!

Boiled wool is a felted knitted wool:  the fibers get wet and agitated in order to felt and are then compressed, which gives boiled wool its lovely texture.  During this compression process, pockets of air become trapped in the fabric, which makes boiled wool very cozy.  But despite being bulky, boiled wool still has a beautiful drape, lending itself well to loose or boxy jackets and coats.  Lately, lots of clothing brands seem to be as taken as we are with boiled wool!

From left to right:  Eileen Fisher, Michael Kors, Free People, Land's End.

Back in 2013, the daughter of Stonemountain & Daughter, co-owner Suzan, had a jacket made for her in a rich chocolate brown boiled wool.  It really made us see Vogue Pattern #8430 in a new light!

What We'd Make with Boiled Wool this Season

Here's some other patterns we carry that would be great in boiled wool!

We would love the Cascade Duffle Coat in our pumpkin colored boiled wool:  it would be such a perfect fall jacket!

Or how about a classic peacoat style—Thread Theory's Goldstream Coat—in this camel colored boiled wool/viscose blend?  The viscose makes this boiled wool lighter weight, which would be useful for a more detailed pattern like this.

We think this chic cream color jacket (Vogue 9140) would be so nice to snuggle up with this fall/winter season.  Marci Tilton sure makes great jacket patterns for boiled wool!

We love the drape of this New Look jacket as well, which we would love to see in a fun bright color like this rose boiled wool/viscose.  This would be the kind of piece you could just throw on over jeans and still look fabulous.

Since 100% boiled wool is so bulky, buttonholes can sometimes be tricky.  This coat alternatively uses a wrap style, which would be great in boiled wool.  We love the heathered look of our boiled wool in Smoke with this shawl collar Burda coat.

Tips for Sewing Boiled Wool 

  • Choosing a suitable pattern is important when dealing with bulky fabrics, since detailed seaming, pleats, darts, and gathers won't work well.  Check the fabric recommendations on your pattern of course, but also take a good look at the line drawing to gauge its appropriateness. 
  • You shouldn't need interfacing for such a bulky fabric, and it's best to get rid of facings or linings.  If you've chosen a great pattern for boiled wool, you may not even have to.
  • A standard presser foot should do the trick, but you may want to try a walking foot if your machine has trouble with thick fabrics.
  • Consider using alternative closures to buttons, like the toggles shown on the Cascade Duffle Coat or the wrap style of Burda 6704.
  • There's no need to preshrink boiled wool, and it's usually best to dry clean your completed garments, unless instructed otherwise by your fabric's manufacturer.

What Would You Make?

Tell us what you would create with boiled wool!  And if you've already done so, send us pictures at  We love to see customer creations!

Thursday, September 24, 2015

How to Adapt a Regular Sewing Pattern into a Costume

Our busiest season is upon us—Halloween!  This is one of our favorite times of year, because we really get to help our customers get creative with their costuming and decorating.  We've been busy stocking our shelves with fun novelty fabrics, colorful felt, sewing-alternative glues, sparkly trims, and of course, costume patterns!  This year, we have great new patterns for superheros, Cinderella, Ninja Turtles, Minions, and more.

While the major pattern companies make a ton of costume patterns, there's no way they could make a pattern for every single costume.  So what if you can't find a costume pattern to fit your idea?  And what if you don't want to spend the money on a pattern you'll only use once?  Why limit yourself?

There's absolutely no reason you can't use a regular pattern to make a costume!  You may already have a suitable pattern, or you can buy a pattern that you can actually use again.  Many sewists get intimidated by the idea of using a pattern for a purpose other than its intended, but it's not that scary, we promise!

Check Out That Line Drawing

Sewing patterns will include a line drawing, showing the style lines and basics of construction from the front and back.  These are also called "flats."  This image will be the starting point when picking a pattern.  It's easy to get distracted by pictures of the completed garment, which can hinder our ability to re-imagine the pattern done in a different way.  But the line drawing gives us a blank slate on which to add our creativity!

Basic = Better

A lot of moms have made their little girls' costumes from the Fairy Tale Dress pattern by Oliver + S.  It's a beautiful pattern with a classic silhouette, making it super easy to customize.  And, since it's a great basic dress pattern on its own, you can use it again!

Just choosing the right fabrics alone can make this dress a perfect costume!  Blogger Dasha made this adorable Dorothy outfit for her daughter using a blue gingham.

You can customize this pattern even more with a few simple alterations.  Queen of the Flies shows us how by just changing up the skirt and cutting the hem as shown, this makes a perfect Tinkerbell!

This dress pattern is super popular for costume making, and we definitely recommend checking out Oliver + S's flickr and Pinterest to see more!

Bodysuit Customizing

Coveralls and bodysuits make good starting points, since you can easily add design elements.  Again, thinking of the pattern as a blank slate helps.  We found pictures of an awesome Boba Fett costume using Kwik Sew 3389, which is an coveralls pattern.  The costume creator added his own armor and a number of pockets to make this Star Wars costume great!

Here's a perfect example of how a simple pattern can become something fantastic:  this perfect Storm costume from Kwik Sew 3052.  By eliminating the sleeves, appliqueing the gold parts, and adding a cape, this costume is spot on.


Cut and Paste to Perfection

You may already have a pattern that could work for your costume idea, and you might not even realize!  Sometimes all you need to do is add or subtract a few details.  Blogger Deb used a number of Oliver + S patterns on her daughter's pirate costume, but she got really inventive with the pirate vest.  Rather than buy a vest pattern or go to all the trouble of drafting her own, she used the basic shape of the Sleepover Pajama top, which was such a smart choice!

Deb also used the Class Picnic top pattern and the Badminton skirt pattern.

Sometimes you have to "Frankenstein" your pattern a bit and combine some elements.  Sewist Shelley made quite the show stopper for her boy—this amazing Evel Knievel outfit!  Using The Nature Walk Pullover and Knit Pants pattern from Oliver + S, Shelley combined the top and bottom to make a jumpsuit.  By making the collar larger and adding the front zipper, this jumpsuit got some 70's flair.  So cute!!

Hopefully this helps you start your costume making process!  Whether you're making your child a quick costume they'll only wear once or you're making an intricate piece you plan to use for multiple cosplay events, there are patterns out there for you—and they aren't necessarily costume ones!

What are you planning on making this Halloween season?

Tuesday, September 8, 2015

The Three Brushed and Napped Fabrics We'll Be Using This Fall

While most shopping is visual by nature, there is something wonderful about the tactile aspect of fabric shopping.  We love to feel the slubby threads in our handwoven ikats, the cool fluidity of a rayon challis, or the cushy thickness of a wool coating.  And who doesn't love a soft, brushed flannel or a smooth, luxurious velvet?  These kinds of fabrics may be the softest to the touch, but this also means they are dealt with differently in our sewing.

Velvet is a prime examples of a fabric with a "nap," which refers to the direction in which the "pile" goes.  Pile refers to the fibers that are upright or raised from the base cloth.  Think about a sueded jacket or a velveteen couch:  if you brush the fabric with your hand one way, it will be soft and smooth.  But go the opposite way, going against the grain,  and the fabric will feel rougher, while also looking different.  The easiest way to see this is with a high pile fabric, like fur.

The top portion shows the faux fur brushed with the nap, along the pile.  It looks smooth and feels soft.  The bottom half shows what happens when you brush against the nap.  The pile of the fur stands up, and you can see more of the undercoat and backing.

What kinds of fabrics have a nap?

Velvet, corduroy, velour, velveteen, moleskin, flannel, flannelette, and suede are all fabrics that are napped and/or brushed, and these are all fabrics we are loving these days!  After a long hot summer, we can't wait to cuddle up with soft and fuzzy fabrics.  Here's what we're excited about working with right now!


Velvet may be more luxurious, but velveteen is not without its perks!  Since it's usually 100% cotton, sewing and caring for your projects will be easier.  It has a shorter pile than velvet, so it's not so delicate or tricky to work with.  And it's not just for garment sewing; velveteen lends itself beautifully to home decor.  We're loving these beautiful Lush Velveteens, both for their soft hand and rich colors.

Lush Velveteens in Cabernet, Gold, and Celestial


We haven't seen a lot of moleskin out there for awhile, but it's having a comeback!  And it's not hard to see why.  Moleskin is a 100% cotton fabric with a very short pile, so its nap is almost imperceptible.  It's super soft but simultaneously has a great weight to it.  This densely woven fabric makes amazing bags, and we're dreaming up how we can use it for garments too.  A boxy coat or a jeans style skirt perhaps?

Cotton Moleskin in Moss, Tan, and Coffee

Plaid Flannels

Cotton flannels don't exactly have a nap, but they are brushed, which makes the cotton soft and fuzzy.  Unless there is a very noticeable nap, you can work with flannel like any other woven cotton.  Just keep in mind that it shrinks a lot!  We all love flannel pajamas and robes, but we're also thinking about making the men in our lives some cozy flannel shirts.  Or maybe even lining a coat in flannel!

Mammoth Flannel - Adventure, Mammoth Flannel - Evergreen, Primo Plaid Flannel - Harvest

So how does this affect my sewing?

Napped fabrics actually affect your planning and cutting more than anything!  It's important to cut a napped fabric with all the pattern pieces in the same direction, or else your finished garment will look and feel "off."

Cutting Napped Fabrics

Some patterns may have different fabric requirements and cutting layouts for napped fabrics.  You may see stars or asterisks indicating these differences.  Ultimately though, it's about making sure the nap is going the same way on all the pattern pieces, as shown in this diagram from a great Threads article on pattern layouts:

See how the tops of the pieces (the shoulder seams and sleeve cap) are all facing the same way? 

In More Fabric Savvy, Sandra Betzina recommends to use a single thickness, rather than folding in half, when cutting out velvet.  She also notes that cutting in the direction of the pile will lead to smoother cuts.

Pressing Napped Fabrics

Pressing napped fabrics is also done differently, so as to not crush the pile.  In general, avoid ironing on the right side, which has the pile.  Ironing on the wrong side is usually enough precaution to take with low pile fabrics like velveteen or moleskin, but further steps should be taken with higher pile fabrics like velvet, corduroy, or velour.  Using a velvet or needle board will allow you to press seams or darts without crushing the beautiful pile.  A velvet board is comprised of a bunch of dull needles, which gives your pile room to breathe while you iron the wrong side.

With the right side down on the velvet board, you can be more confident in pressing higher pile fabrics.  You can also try using a thick fluffy towel.  And it's always a good idea to use a pressing cloth or a piece of organza between the wrong side of the fabric and your iron!

Sewing Napped Fabrics

If you've been careful in your cutting, you're in good shape for sewing your napped fabric.  You may not run into any problems with low pile pieces, but again, the higher the pile, the more caution you should take.  We recommend using thin, high quality silk pins or no pins at all, since some holes may not come out.  Try using a basting tape instead!

Using a walking foot can be very helpful here, so that the fabric evenly feeds while sewing.  (If you're unfamiliar with this foot, read our earlier blog on presser feet!)  It's best to sew in the direction of the pile, and you may want to raise the presser foot every few inches to allow the fabric to relax as you sew.  Topstitching is not recommended, and it's easiest to use sew-in interfacings since ironing these fabrics can be tricky.

Is it Fall yet??

We'll be posting more blogs with our fall favorites and tips for sewing them.  Keep an eye out for a blog on boiled wool and wool coating coming up next!

What fabrics and patterns are you planning for your fall sewing?

Tuesday, August 25, 2015

Given a Chance, This Will Be Your Favorite Dress Ever!

There's a lot of dress patterns out there, we know.  But this pattern has been topping all of our sewing queues.  Maybe because it flies off your sewing machine in a few hours, giving you instant gratification.  Maybe because its details look deceivingly tricky when it's really a cinch.  Or maybe it's because this dress looks absolutely fabulous on every body type, and it's a real life saver in this heat!

If you haven't guessed by now, we're talking about the Given a Chance Dress by Decades Everyday!

We're already big fans of Decades of Style, an indie pattern company that calls Berkeley its home, like us.  And our sister blog, FabricLady, has posted about Decades Everyday, a micro-line of patterns from Decades of Style, when Suzan showed us her super cute ESP dress.  Given a Chance is the second pattern from Decades Everyday, and it's been a major hit.

All of us on staff have been wearing our Given a Chance dresses constantly this summer.  It's great to wear loose fitting clothing in this heat, but we don't necessarily want to sacrifice style for comfort!  Given a Chance is the best of both worlds.  It looks great belted if you want a more waist-defining look, but it also looks amazing unbelted, which is perfect for hot summer weather.

Here's Lauren, Mary Jane, and Claire wearing Given a Chance dresses made out of double gauze, which lends itself beautifully to this pattern.  The breezy fabric makes for a great summer frock.

Quilting weight cotton is also great for this pattern, and Claire used our food prints to make an amazing watermelon dress!

All those novelty prints you've been eyeing?  This is the perfect pattern!  Above, Liz shows us how well suited this dress is for large scale prints.

More cotton Given a Chance dresses—Cathy on the bottom left and Isabel on the right.  On the top left is a customer who made hers into a top using a t-shirt for the main fabric and a woven for the yoke.

You can also use knits for both the main and the yoke.  It's designed for wovens, but Terry McClintock, one of our teachers, used a stable ponte knit for the yoke, and it looks great!

And of course, other wovens besides cotton are fair game.  Lauren (left) used a rayon challis for the main fabric for a more drapey look.  Janet (right) used a textured cotton, showing how nice this dress looks when you use the same fabric for both the main and the yoke.

Here's another Given a Chance in a more subdued color palette.  Our customer Renee added piping between the main and the yoke and added a layered effect on the hem.

Another customer, Tiffani, shows us how awesome this dress looks when converted into a top!  She also got creative with a border print eyelet, and we love it!

Border prints also work well with the dress version if it's a larger scale.  We definitely recommend reading one of the latest FabricLady blogs, which gives some hints and ideas for working with border prints.

You can see that the possibilities are endless!  Being so easy to customize, this pattern can fit into anyone's style.  Here's some ideas for more Given a Chances just to show how flexible this tried and true pattern can be.

Now it's your turn!  If you wear a Given a Chance made from our fabrics into the store, we'll take your picture and give you a FREE Decades of Style pattern of your choice!  We'll wrap up this promotion on September 16, when we'll be having a Given a Chance party in the store!  You'll get to meet the pattern designer and other Bay Area sewists, and we're going to take a picture of everyone in their Given a Chance dresses or tops!  So mark your calendars for Wednesday, September 16 at 12pm, and wear your Given a Chance too!

Tuesday, August 4, 2015

The 9 Presser Feet Your Sewing Toolbox Needs

Let's talk about feet!  That isn't a sentence you probably hear a lot, but of course, our presser feet are extremely important to us sewists.  The right presser foot will not only accomplish what you need it to do, it can make your life much easier and your sewing less frustrating.

You might have realized by now that there are tons of different presser feet out there, ranging from a few bucks to hundreds of dollars.  We're just going to cover what we consider the 9 most essential.  Since our sewing school at Stonemountain is equipped with Berninas, that's what you'll be seeing, and it's worth mentioning that Bernina feet are different from what you may be used to seeing in Brothers, Singers, Janomes, etc.  Most home sewing machines switch feet with a lever that drops the foot, and you just snap a new one on.  True Bernina feet are attached to a shank, so they may look a little different from what you're used to, but the mechanics are the same.

Basic Presser Foot

1.  Just about anyone who's ever sewed before has used a basic presser foot.  It sews straight.  It's usually named foot #1 or foot A.  That's pretty much all there is to say!  However, this is the perfect opportunity to show you the difference between Bernina feet and regular feet.

What you see on the right is what most machines use.  That bar on the top will snap on to the shank, seen on the left.  And then that little red button will drop it.  Bernina feet come with a shank attached to the foot.  The shank on the left is often called an adapter, since it allows Bernina sewists to use feet like you see on the right.

Zipper Feet 


2.  Zipper Foot

Moving on, let's show you another basic, commonly used foot:  the zipper foot.

Bernina zipper foot on the left, regular zipper foot on the right.

Rather than having two little "toes" and space in the center, the zipper foot has one central "toe."  That "toe" goes on top of the zipper being installed and the needle sews on either side of this.

3.  Invisible Zipper Foot

But a zipper foot cannot properly install an invisible zipper, which has its own foot.  Coats & Clark and YKK (two major zipper manufacturers) make invisible zipper feet, since many machines do not come with one.  However, since the Coats and YKK ones are all plastic and thus a bit flimsy, getting a zipper foot made to go with your machine or your brand is probably in your best interest.

What makes an invisible zipper foot different is the grooves on the bottom.  These allow you to get right up next to the zipper teeth, which is what ultimately makes it invisible.

See how the zipper teeth of one side go inside that groove on the left?  The closer you can get to those teeth—without actually sewing on the teeth—the better your invisible zipper will look.

Finishing Feet


4.  Overlock Foot

A lot of home sewists don't have sergers, so an overlock foot can be a big help.  There's all kinds of these, including ones that even have a blade in them to really imitate a serger!  But most machines come with a basic overlock stitch and accompanying foot that will do the trick just fine.

See that little bar the arrow is pointing to?  That's what makes this foot different.  Below, you'll be able to see a little thread behind that bar, while the needle goes past the edge of the fabric.  This action is what allows the thread to essentially wrap around the raw edge, finishing it off with a mock overlock.

While it differs by machine, the symbol for a mock overlock stitch will often look like a zig zag stitch with a straight line next to it.  Sometimes it also looks like the graph on a heart rate monitor!

5. Blind Hem Foot

Machines will also often come with a blind hem stitch and accompanying foot.  This can go hand in hand with your mock overlock stitch!

A blind hem foot will often have some kind of metal or plastic attachment on the side of the actual foot.  This will act as a guide as you sew, allowing the actual stitches to be very tiny, and therefore, blind from the right side.  After attaching your foot and selecting the stitch (which always looks like a little mountain range to me), you'll fold your fabric as shown in your manual.  The way we've done it below, the raw edge was first finished with a mock overlock.  We folded the hem allowance up, and then flipped it back over to the right side, making another fold.  That is what you see up against the guide below.

This process will make more sense if you refer to your manual's instructions, but here is the finished product.

Machine stitched blind hem, wrong side (L) and right side (R).
 You can see the little triangles pointing towards the fold in the left picture.  The tips of those triangles are what catches the fold and makes the tiny stitches you see in the right picture.  Though we used a contrasting thread for clarity, using a matching thread would make this a real blind hem.

Quilting and Beyond


6.  Edgestitch Foot

Though not essential, a stitch in the ditch foot or edgestitch foot can be a lifesaver.  This foot also has a guide to assist you, like the blind hem foot.

That guide would either go on the edge of the fabric or in the "ditch."  Stitching in the ditch is a technique often used in quilting, but it also has uses in garment sewing.  It's when you sew directly on top of a seam, which can hide the stitch when you use a matching thread.

This isn't always the case, but seeing as how this Bernina's blind hem and edgestitch feet look so similar, you may be wondering how to tell the difference.  Obviously these ones are numbered, but here's what really sets them apart.

The bind hem foot on the right has that little metal part in the oval shape hole where the needle goes.  In a blind hem stitch, the needle goes side to side to make those little triangles, and in order to make the stitches small on the right side, the needle just barely has to catch the fold.  That little curved metal piece is part of the guide on the blind hem foot, so that your fold is accurately placed.  The edgestitch foot is made for a straight stitch, so no guide is necessary for the needle.

7.  1/4" Seam Foot

Most sewing patterns for garments include 5/8" seam allowances, but the standard seam allowance for quilting is 1/4".  You can follow the seam allowance lines on your machine's throat plate, but this can be more difficult when your seam allowance is so small.  And with quilting, even 1/8" can make a visible difference!  Enter the 1/4" seam foot.  Like the edgestitch or blind hem feet, this presser foot has a guide to make your life easier.

That guide will take any guesswork out of sewing a 1/4" seam.  Other than that, it acts like a regular presser foot.

The result is a perfect 1/4" seam every time, making this an essential foot for quilters, especially beginning quilters!

8.  Darning/Free Motion Quilting Foot

You probably know that when you sew a seam, the feed dogs underneath your fabric are what move the fabric along.  This keeps your stitches neat, even, and straight.  But if you're trying to free motion quilt, these feed dogs would quickly get in the way!  Luckily, they can be dropped.  This switch or button is located in different places on different machines.  However, dropping the feed dogs alone won't be enough to easily free motion quilt, since a regular presser foot won't allow you to move the fabric a lot, especially if you're trying to quilt curves or shapes.  A free motion quilting foot, also known as a darning foot, will give you the freedom to turn your fabric as much as you want.

One of these darning feet has a clear plastic part to allow you to better see what you're quilting.  You'll also notice that they both have a spring in them.  This allows the foot to hop up and down while sewing, so that your fabric doesn't get stuck under the foot.  This also means that when you lower the presser foot, the foot doesn't actually touch the fabric like others would.  You can see this below, where there is still a shadow under the foot, even though it's been lowered.

You may also see that the stitches are not all an even length, since there's no regulation from feed dogs.  Sewing without feed dogs leaves you with all the control, but it can be hard to master!  Some machines have stitch regulator mechanisms to keep your stitches even, but these can be pricey.

Despite its difficulty, a free motion quilting foot is the only foot that would allow you to make curves and designs like these!

9.  Walking Foot

Let's talk about feed dogs some more.  When working with one or two layers of fabric, those feed dogs underneath move everything along just fine.  But when you're working with multiple layers, like in a quilt, the top layers may not be moving as fast or as easily as the bottom layers next to the feed dogs.  This also becomes an issue with working with thick fabrics like fur or leather or with sticky fabrics like oilcloth and vinyl.  These are all reasons why a walking foot can be your best friend.

See that green arrow?  It's pointing to what makes a walking foot different:  its extra set of feed dogs.  With feed dogs on the bottom and the top, thick layers of fabric, quilt "sandwiches," and sticky fabrics will move with ease.

Here you can see the walking foot's feed dogs lifting up.  They'll move back down again and help move the fabric along at an even pace.

With the exception of the feed dogs, a walking foot acts much like a regular foot.  It's just quite a bit bigger.  Walking feet vary by machine, and you should make sure you get one that is compatible with yours.  You'll soon wonder how you ever survived without one!

Wrapping Up

At the end of the day, most sewing projects can be completed with just a regular presser foot and a zipper foot.  But having these extra feet can eliminate a lot of headaches and make your sewing more enjoyable.  There are dozens of other feet we haven't mentioned, and the more your sewing skills progress, the more interested you may be in them.  But for most sewists, quilters, and crafters, these nine feet can tackle almost any problem!

Do you have a specialty presser foot you can't live without?  Tell us about it!

P.S.  These samples were sewn with Kona Cerise, and the feet were photographed on top of our organic cotton double gauze in blue.