Tuesday, October 24, 2017

Coat Sewing in Wool, Linen & Cotton!

Are you sewing a coat this winter? Not only are there so many beautiful coat patterns, but there are so many fabric possibilities too! Take a look at the fabric we'd love to transform into outerwear and the patterns we would pair it with. If only we all had the time to sew a dozen coats, right?

Boiled Wool

100% boiled wool in Kelly Green, Sapphire, and Fuchsia

Boiled wool is washed and dried at a high heat during production, which results in a pre-shrunk fabric that won't fray. It's a durable fabric that is resistant to dirt and naturally repels water—perfect for rainy or snowy weather.

When sewing with boiled wool it's a good idea to stabilize shoulder seams and other stress points to keep them from stretching out. The wool can also stretch and become misshapen with pressing, so only press lightly and at low heat if necessary.

Though we have the standard black and camel, we also have boiled wool in a rainbow of colors. Our favorites for this season are Autumn and Lavender!

Our pattern picks:

Sapporo Coat by Papercut Patterns

 Pilvi Coat from Everyday Style by Lotta Jansdotter.
Check out Fabric Lady and Laurel's versions!

Clare Coat by Closetcase


Yes, linen can be a year-round fabric! It's the perfect choice for adding light warmth and can be paired with a flannel lining to make a cozy layer. Try a pattern that's designed to be slightly oversized so you can bundle up with a sweater underneath (like the Toaster from Sew House Seven or the Linden from Grainline Studio).

Linen is a natural fiber that's prone to wrinkles, but if you aren't ready to embrace the rumpled look you have a couple of options. This tutorial from Fabric Lady shows you how to pre-treat linen to be wrinkle resistant. You could also use a linen blend, like Robert Kaufman Essex, which is less wrinkly due to the 55% linen/45% cotton fiber content.

Our pattern picks:

Tamarack Jacket by Grainline Studio

The Strand by Merchant and Mills

Fabric Lady and Laurel's beautiful metallic linen Sapporos


Cotton might not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of outerwear, but it can make an excellent coat. And if you are concerned about the origins of wool fabric, then cotton is a great vegan-friendly option. There's also the benefit of cotton being one of the easiest fabrics to sew with!

Cotton comes in many forms, but here are the fabric/pattern pairings we love:

Tamarack Jacket by Grainline Studio and kantha cloth

The Foreman by Merchant and Mills and corduroy

Gaia Coat by Named Clothing and Indian cotton jacquard

Don't forget about linings!

Linings are a practical component of coats and jackets, but they're also an opportunity for more beautiful fabric! Use a bright color for a pop of contrast or go with a fun print. Rayon bemberg, silk habotai, and cotton lawn all make excellent lining fabrics.

Rayon bemberg lining in Mango
Silk habotai in royal purple
Cotton lawn by Cotton + Steel
You may also consider underlining your coat. Underlining is a good option for adding warmth to an unlined coat pattern—just cut out the pattern pieces in both main and underlining fabrics, baste together, and treat the pieces as if they are one fabric. Try this with the Strand and a snuggly flannel!

If you haven't tried coat sewing yet, what are you waiting for? It's a great way to learn new skills and use some fabric you might not sew with otherwise. Plus, nobody will bat an eye if you wear your new favorite make every day of the week, unlike other garments! If you need some more inspiration before you dive into a coat project, check out all our outerwear patterns here.

Which coat pattern are you most excited about?


  1. Surprised you don't give your boiled wood width. That's a pretty important detail to leave out

    1. Hi evj, I'm so sorry! When you click over to our product page all the widths of the boiled wool (and other fabrics) are always shown. I hope that this is satisfactory and you are able to get the important information you need and that you enjoyed our blog anyway :) Happy Sewing, Suzan - Owner, Stonemountain & Daughter Fabrics

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  4. Thank you friend for this amazing blog post, I really admire this. Cotton lawn fabric is an airy and sheer cloth made of 100% cotton. Plainly woven, it features a smooth and untextured surface with a crisp finish.

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